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2012年9月27日木曜日

モーレ、モーレ、アモーレ♪ More, More, Amore♪

8月中旬、まだまだ暑い日が続いて夏が終わる前にもう一回「アドリア海で泳ぎたい!!!」と思い立って、海を目指すことに・・・。今回はザグレブから車で2時間半で行けるイストラ半島のクルク島(Krk Island)のモーレに決定。「モーレ(More)」とはクロアチア語で「海」の意味。

I missed MORE (more, pronounced as mo-re, means "sea" in Croatian)!!! It was still very hot in the middle of August, and I really wanted to bath in the Adriatic Sea before the summer ends. So, we decided to drive to a beach at Krk Island of Istria (or Istra) peninsula, which is my husband's recommendation.

通常、クロアチアの観光シーズンのピークは7月初めから8月初めまでで、さすがに8月上旬にもなれば道も空いているだろう、と思ってたのですが甘かった・・・!まだまだクロアチアのモーレを目指して近隣諸国から車が大挙して押し寄せてきていました。写真はザグレブの高速入口。

Usually, the touristic season in Croatia reaches its peak from the beginning of July and the beginning of August. So, I thought the road should be empty compared to the holiday seasons. But, I was wrong. Even in the mid-August, still many people from Europe came to Croatia aiming at the More.

予想外にも道中、渋滞につかまりました。周りの車を見るとEUプレートの車ばかり。高速の80%くらい、下手するとそれ以上がドイツやオーストリアなどなどクロアチア外の車じゃないかな、と思います。遠いところでは、イギリスのプレートを付けた車、フィンランドからのバイクなどを見かけました∑(・ω・ノ)ノヨーロッパじゃぁLCCもたくさんあって航空網も発達しているから飛行機で移動か、と思いきやまだまだ車で旅行する人がたくさん。ガソリン代考えたら飛行機の方が安いと思うんだけどなぁ・・・。その話を旦那にしたら、「車のほうが面白い場所を見つけたら寄っていけるし、車窓からの景色もきれいじゃない?」との返事。時間がない日本人の考え方とはちょっと違うみたい。

Unexpectedly, we were caught in traffic :S As you can see on the photo above, we are surrounded by cars from outside Croatia. European car plate states in which country the car is registered (the left blue part). I think, possibly about 80% or could be more of the cars on the road were non-Croatian. I also saw a few cars with British plate and a few bikes with Finnish plate! People do love to travel on roads in Europe. Personally, I think it would be much faster and cheaper to fly, because Europe has many low-cost carriers ad they do have relatively good connections between European countries and also because petrol price is very high. When I told about this to my husband, he answered to me like "but, if you travel by car, you can stop wherever you want when you find interesting places, and you can enjoy beautiful view from the window". For me, as a Japanese, I would like to save time and money (because our lifestyle is very tight with time), but it seems like people here have different opinion...

渋滞に巻き込まれながら、ザグレブから3時間ほど車を走らせてやってきたのはクルク島のバシュカ(Baška)。バシュカにはホテルや広大なキャンプ場があって、まだまだ観光客で賑わっていました。

After about 3 hours drive from Zagreb, we finally reached our final destination, Baška beach. Baška has long beach, about 2km, and it was full of people. There are several hotels and also a big camping spot, and I saw many camping cars there.




バシュカはクロアチアでも有名なリゾート地らしく、レストランやカフェ、お土産屋さんが充実していました。暑いので、道を歩く人も水着のままだったり、かなりリラックスした雰囲気。夜もものすごい人でにぎわっていました。

Baška is said to be one of the most popular resorts in Croatia. It seems like that Baška is well developed resort, as there are so many restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops! People are walking on the streets and beach in their swim wear and summer dress, and it has very relaxing atmosphere.


ちなみにクロアチア政府の発表によると、2012年1月から7月末までにクロアチアを訪れた外国人は440万人にも上るのだそう。クロアチアの人口が640万人なので、年間を通したらクロアチア人の人口に届きそうな勢い!

According to the Croatian Government, about 4.4 million people visited Croatia from January 2012 to the end of July! The Croatian population is about 6.5 million, so the number of the annual visitors to Croatia could reach the population in Croatia.



太陽に照らされてキラキラと光る水面。肌をじりじりと焼きつくような太陽の下では、この冷た~いアドリア海の水がとっても気持ちいい 水も透明感があってきれい。昔イタリア人の友達が「同じ海なのにクロアチア側の方がきれい」と言っていたのを思い出した。旦那曰く「それは海流でゴミがクロアチア側からイタリア側に流れていくから・・・」だとか・・・Σ(゚Д゚)??!!! でも夜になると海岸を掃除している人もいたし、ちゃんと管理しているからじゃないかな~とも思う。でも、夕方になると海にぷかぷかゴミがどこからか流れてくるのを見るとやっぱり海流で南から北にゴミも運ばれてくるのかも・・・とも思ったり・・・(ー_ー;)

Look at this beautiful beautiful shining sea! :))) The water is a bit cold, but under the strong sun and high temperature outside, it felt really good♬ Although there are lots of people on the beach, the water is relatively clean. I remembered that my Italian friend said that "Croatian beach is much more beautiful than Italian beach although we share the same sea... it's very weird."My husband's answer to it was "because all the trashes are carried to Italy by ocean currents"Σ(゚Д゚)??!!! But, I saw people cleaning the beach, so I think Croatian beaches are clean because people take care of them. On the other hand, when it gets afternoon, there were some trashes floating on the sea, so maybe as my husband says, the current brings trashes from the South to the North... :S Generally, people say if you look for a beach, find one located South of a big city and avoid North of it.
リゾート気分満点の葦(?)のパラソルの下で強い太陽をしのぎつつ、真っ青な空と青い海を堪能♪ ちなみに、このパラソルは一日80Kn(現金のみ)。人気なので朝早くに行くか、前日に予約することをお勧めします。

There are some reed parasols on the beach and they added more of "resort atmosphere" to Baška. The price to rent the parasol is 80Kn per day (cash only). They were always occupied, so if you want to get one for you, then you should go to the beach early in the morning or book one a day before. We were lucky to get a parasol for us and enjoyed the blue sky and blue sea under the parasol :)

周りを見渡すとこんがり日焼けした人ばかり。肌の白い人を見ると「あ、ここに着いたばかりなんだ」とすぐに分かる。きっとバシュカに何日も滞在してがんばって日焼けするんだろうな~なんて想像できる。私はというと、シミになるのが嫌だから日焼けはしたくない方なんだけれど、周りを見ているとついつい「ちょっとくらいいいかな~」なんて思ってしまう。でもちょっとどころか、一日ビーチにいたら日焼け止めを塗っていたにも関わらず、ばっちり日焼けしました(>_<)

People are so much tanned and I felt so out of place because my skin was so pale that time... In Japan, especially young women don't want to get tanned and getting tanned is not considered as cool like in Western countries. Historically, tanned people were usually farmers or people who work outside, meaning not wealthy people. Wealthy people in old Japan stayed at home and had pale skin. So, I think still this kind of thinking remains and "not tanned" or light tone skin is considered to be more beautiful than tanned skin. So, in Japan, you will see many women holding a sunshade and maybe wearing long gloves in summer!

ちなみにクルク島にはアパートメントホテルやソベが何か所かあるのですが、長期滞在でないと貸してくれないところが大半。1泊などショートステイならば事前にホテル予約をしておいた方が絶対に安心(ウェブサイトはこちら)。

それにしてもきれな海せっかくクロアチアまで来たら、アドリア海でココロをチャージして帰るのもいいかも

In krk Island, there are many apartment hotels and sobe (private rooms). But, most of the owners are reluctant to rent one unless you stay there long (like 5 nights, a week). Finding an apartment hotel or sobe just for one night was very very difficult near Baška. So, if you plan to stay for a short time, definitely better to book a hotel or apartment hotel before you go (website).

Anyway, I really really love Croatian beaches and More I was so soothed and healed by this clear blue sky and water. We recharged our batteries and went back to the city (Zagreb) :)


Recharge yourself at the beautiful Adriatic Sea of Croatia!!! ;)

2012年9月18日火曜日

ドブロブニク周辺のビーチ Beach near Dubrovnik :)


ドゥブロブニクはクロアチア最大の観光地にも関わらず、海が透き通っていてとってもきれい!EUの水質調査によると、クロアチアの海はマルタ、ギリシャ、キプロスに並んでヨーロッパで最もきれいなんだとか。この写真はホテルベルビュー(ウェブサイトはこちら)から旧市街に行く途中の海岸沿いで撮ったもの。海の底まできれ~に見える、何とも言えない色の透き通ったブルーの海

Croatian beaches are among the cleanest in Europe, together with Cyprus, Malta and Greece, according to the research done by the European Commission, and so is the water in Dubrovnik even though Dubrovnik is the most popular touristic destination in Croatia! Look at the photo above! You see, the water is so clear that you can see the bottom of the sea clearly, and it has breathtaking emerald blue colour. This photo was taken on the way to the Old City of Dubrovnik from the Hotel Belleveu Dubrovnik (website is here ).
ピンクの花アドリア海のブルーのコントラストがとってもきれい 本当に吸い込まれそうなブルー。強い日差しの中歩いていたら、アドリア海に飛び込みたい誘惑に駆られました。実際、この辺で泳いでいる人もいましたが、岩場のビーチで海が深そうなので、よっぽど自信がある人にしかおススメできません・・・。

The contrast between the pink flowers and the blue Adriatic Sea is marvelous This dazzling blue water tempted me a lot to dive into the sea while I walked under the strong sun. Actually, I saw some people swimming around this area. But, it seems the beach is very rocky and the water is very deep, so I wouldn't swim there unless I'm extremely confident in my swimming skills...

ホテル・ベルビューから旧市街に向かう途中、パリのPont des Artにあったみたいに、愛の南京錠が何個か金網にかかっていました。カップルがお互いの名前を南京錠に書いて鍵をかける、これって、最近の流行なのかな?少しくらいならいいけど、パリのPont des Artみたいにたくさんありすぎると反対に醜いと思うんだけれど、どうなんだろう・・・?(^ ^;)

I also saw some "love-padlocks" on the fence like on the Pont des Art in Paris, on the way to the Old City from the hotel. Couples write their names or initials on padlocks and affix to the fence or bridges to wish their everlasting love, it seems like. I guess it is a kind of trend? But I'm not sure if I agree with this practice. When I visited Paris this May first time in 6-7 years, I was actually a bit shocked to see the Pont des Art shining because of heaps of love-padlocks. For me, it looked a bit ugly and I preferred the "old" Pont des Art without them.


ロクルム島のビーチ Beach at Lokrum Island


ドゥブロブニクにはプライベートビーチも含めて何か所かビーチがあります。旧市街から歩いて5分くらいのところにあるバニエビーチ(Banje)ロクロム島(Otok Lokrum)なんかが公共のビーチとしては人気。極めつけはドブロブニク旧市街の城壁もありますが・・・。

There are many beaches (private and public) around Dubrovnik. The most popular public beaches are Banje Beach (only 5 min walk from the Old City) and Lokrum Island. Some people dive into the water from the City Wall of Dubrovnik, though :)
私たちせっかくだからドブロブニクで泳ぎたい!ということで、ドブロブニクではないですが、クロアチアに遊びに来てくれた元上司ご家族を空港までお見送りした後に、空港近くのツァヴタット(Cavtat)という小さな町のビーチで一日のんびりすることにしました。ドゥブロブニクからツァヴタットまでバスやボートが出ているのでアクセスもそんなに悪くない場所です。しかもドゥブロブニク周辺に比べたら観光客も少なくてビーチでゆったりくつろげるのがステキ。このあたりにもホテルやアパートメントホテルがたくさんあるみたいなので(Booking.comのウェブサイト)、ドゥブロブニクに慣れた人はここでゆったり旧市街も楽しみつつビーチも楽しむのがいいかも。

So, yes, we were tempted by this clear blue Adriatic sea and decided to spend a relaxing day on a beach after my husband and I saw my ex-boss and his family off at the Dubrovnik Airport. We dropped at a small town near the airport called Cavtat. Buses and boats travel between the Old City of Dubrovnik and Cavtat, so access to Cavtat is not bad at all. And compared to beaches close to Dubrovnik, much less people on the beaches in Cavtat (well, at least in the end of June!), so we spent whole afternoon with just lying down, relaxing and a bit of bathing in the sea :) When I searched on Booking.com, I found that there are many hotels and apartment hotels in Cavtat. So, if you want to stay longer in Dubrovnik and want to enjoy nice beaches (and save some money), then Cavtat is one option.

海の水も透き通ってとってもきれい!海で泳いでもベトベトしなくてさらっと乾燥するから海で泳いだ後そんなに困らなくて便利。体に塩の結晶ができているのを見てちょっとびっくりしたけど・・・!写真を見ても分かるように、クロアチアのビーチは小石やら岩やらがゴロゴロ転がっています。なので、ビーチサンダルは必ず持参した方がいいでしょう。

As you can see on the photo, the water is so clean and transparent. Beaches near my house back in Japan was, to be honest, horrible. When I bathed in the water, my body got so sticky! But here, in the Adriatic Sea, because the water is so clean, I didn't feel sticky on my skin after bathing in the water. I also a bit surprised to see crystallized salt on my skin! I think I've never seen that before :)

Anyway, beaches in Croatia are usually rocky or pebbly. I mean, it's hard to find a sandy beach. There are several, but such sandy beaches are usually full of people. So, definitely better to prepare a pair of beach sandals with you when you go to the beach.
ドゥブロブニク周辺でプライベートビーチがあるホテルはベルビューの他にもリソス(ウェブサイト)、エクセシオール(ウェブサイト)やグランド・ヴィラ・アルゼンティーナ(ウェブサイト)などがあります。ドゥブロブニクに長期滞在するならツァヴタットのほかにラパド半島(Ladad)がお勧め。ここから旧市街までのバスも頻繁に出ているので、交通に困ることはそんなにないです。ドゥブロブニクのホテルやアパートメントホテルを検索するときにBooking.comで地域を設定すると探しやすいです。ドゥブロブニクのホテルはピーク時(7月頭から8月中旬くらいまで)になると予約が取りにくくなるので、早めにホテルを押さえることをお勧めします!

There are some hotels with private beach near Dubrovnik. One of them are Hotel Belleveu Dubrovnik, Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik (website) , Hotel Excelsior (website), and Grand Villa Argentina (website). I wish I could stay either one of them someday in the future! :D But if you are a bit tight with your budget, try Lapad Island or Cavtat. Dubrovnik has a well-developed bus system, so the access won't be problem in Lapad and Cavtat. Also note that it's very hard to find a hotel in the peak touristic season (usually July to mid-August), so better to book a hotel as soon as possible.

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