フランシスコ会修道院とオーガニックコスメ✿ Franciscan Monastery & Centuries-old Cosmetics Recipe

ピレ門から入ってすぐ、オノフリオの大噴水の左手にあるのが14世紀に建てられたフランシスコ会修道院。ちょっと狭くて薄暗い小道を進んでいくと、中庭に続く入口にたどり着きます。入場料は2012年6月の時点で大人一人30Kn。私たちが訪れた時は、クロアチアの祝日だったのに、この修道院も含め主だった観光施設、お店は空いていました。ザグレブだったら、祝日に空いているお店なんてレストランやカフェ以外ないので、ちょっとびっくり。やっぱり観光地だからかな。

Franciscan Monastery is located near the Pile Gate, the North side of Big Onofrio's Fountain. This monastery is said to be established in 14th century. Follow the small and narrow passage and you will find the entrance to the monastery's museum, Mala Braća museum. The entrance is easy to miss though... The entrance fee to the museum was 30Kn for an adult in June 2012.  I write the date because the prices increase each year in Dubrovnik :S

When we visited the monastery, it was the Croatian national holiday. But unlike in Zagreb where all the shops close (except for cafes and restaurants), most of the sightseeing facilities, shops, restaurants and cafes were opened even in the national holiday.

ここは何と言っても、美しい回廊に囲まれた中庭が見どころ。人で溢れかえっているプラツァ通りから別世界に飛び込んだのかと思えるほど、回廊はとっても静か。そして外とは違ってちょっとひんやり。アドリア海の強い太陽が柱の隙間から回廊に差し込んでとっても神秘的。ここはドブロブニクの中でも一番お気に入りの場所❤

The Franciscan Monastery has very very beautiful interior courtyard surrounded by delicate and elegant columns. Compared to the Placa street full of people and very lively, here was so quiet in the courtyard as if I wandered into a completely different world or back in the Middle Ages. The strong sun of the Adriatic streamed in the cool and dark cloister through columns and made such a breathtaking moment. This is my favourite place in Dubrovnik :)❤

回廊を周っていると奥の方に「マラ・ブラーチャ博物館」が見えます。ここには薬壺、手書きの処方箋、ラテン語で書かれた薬学書、調剤道具など、フランシスコ会修道院が力を入れていた薬学に関する展示がたくさん。

Exhibited inside the Mala Braća museum were gallipots, hand-written prescriptions, medical books in Latin language, medical tools and others relating to pharmaceutics. They told us that friars strove to develop the pharmaceutical technology and knowledge to help people.

写真を撮った後に気が付いたのですが、ここは「撮影禁止」でした…。ごめんなさい(>_<)でもせっかくなので、ここに載せることにしました。他にも宗教画、祭具なんかも展示がありました。

I just noticed after I took photos, but it seems like photos are prohibited here. I'm so sorry...(>_<) Well, other than medical and pharmaceutical exhibition, there were religious paintings, ritual articles and others.





そして、女子なら絶対に気になるマラ・ブラーチャ薬局（Ljekarna Mala Braća) !!!1317年創業でヨーロッパで3番目に古い現存する薬局なんです。フランシスコ会修道院に暮す修道士たちが自分たちのために調合した14世紀から伝わる門外不出のオリジナルレシピに基づいた知る人ぞ知る修道院オリジナルコスメが売っているのです。

And if you are interested in organic natural skin care products, don't miss Pharmacy Mala Braća!!! This pharmacy is established in 1317 and said to be the 3rd Oldest pharmacy in Europe. Sounds very attractive, isn't it??!! :)

薬局の中は白を基調としたシンプルな作り。棚に並べられたアンティークなビンがおしゃれ✿地元の人が薬剤師さんにお薬の相談に来たり、と本当に今でも薬局として使われています。

The pharmacy is just before the entrance to the interior courtyard. Those antique bottles on the shelves look so charming and add some "oldness" to this modern white interior of the pharmacy. This pharmacy is actually still used as "normal" pharmacy where many local people came to consult pharmacists about medicines.

さてさて、お目当ての修道院オリジナルコスメは、というとカウンターのところに並べられていました。マラ・ブラーチャのコスメはクロアチアでもここでしか手に入らないので、とっても貴重です。修道院でオーガニックハーブを使って一つ一つ丁寧に手作りされているらしいので、大量生産は無理なのかも…。でも中世から伝わるコスメなんて、ロマンチック(人ˊ ∀｀)．☆．。．:*･°

The monastery original cosmetics are displayed on the counter table. Their skin care products are made based on centuries-old cosmetic recipe handed down since 14th century! This secret recipe was not allowed to be taken out of the monastery until recently. But now, you can buy their natural skin care products made from organic herbs based on the secret recipe of the beauty of Croatia only at this pharmacy. It is said that each product is carefully handmade, so I guess they won't be mass produced and be sold anywhere but here. So, the beauty from the Middle Ages!!! Sounds very romantic :)

こちらが修道院オリジナルのナチュラルコスメ。ローズやラベンダーなどのハーブウォーター（化粧水）、フェイスクリーム、ハンドクリーム、ボディミルク、セルライ対策クリーム、しわ取りクリーム、リップクリームなどがありました。中でも人気なのがローズウォーター、ラベンダーウォーター、ローズクリームと万能クリームと言われるゴールドクリームだそうです。どれも優しいハーブの香りがして、癒されそう❤ちなみに、後ろに写っている箱がかわいい石鹸、良く見たらMade in China...これはわざわざ買わなくてもいいかな…。

Here is the close-up photo of the natural skin care products. They sell herbal water , face cream, hand cream, body milk, anti-cellulite cream, anti-wrinkle cream, lip cream and so on. Especially, their Rose Water, Lavender Water, Rose cream, and Gold cream are beautiful! All of them have natural herb and flower odor and make me so relaxed and refreshed❤ The soaps in lovely boxes are, actually  Made in China... So, I guess no need to buy them here in Dubrovnik.

総督邸 Rector's Palace

6日もドブロヴニクに滞在したのに、文化財、美術館や教会などの観光はほとんどしていません(^ ^;) なにせ、ランチを食べてからは夕方までシエスタだったので、開館時間内に行動できる時間が限られてしまいました・・・。その限られた時間内に一応訪れたのがここ、総督邸(Knežev Dvor)。ここはドゥブロブニクが共和国として繁栄したころ、政治の中心として使われていた場所です。

We stayed in Dubrovnik for 6 days, but didn't have much time to visit cultural and heritage attractions, museums and churches, mainly because we had siesta after lunch til evening. It was really hot while the sun was high up in the sky, so it was good to have siesta, also we wanted to take photos of Dubrovnik early in the morning and night. So, in our limited time for sightseeing, we decided to visit the Rector's House  (Knežev Dvor). This palace was used as the administrative centre of Dubrovnik when the city prospered as a republic (back in time, it was called as "Ragusa Republic").





ここにはラグーサ共和国の政治機関、代表気概、小評議会が置かれただけではなく、裁判所もあったみたい。そして、権威の象徴である「総督」が住んだ場所でもあります。でも汚職や独裁に走らないように、任期はたったの1か月だった様です。しかも、その1か月間は無給だったとか・・・！金もうけのためじゃなく、国民のための政治。その精神は、今はどこへやら・・・。

The Major Council, the Minor Council, and the court were placed in this palace, also, the Dubrovnik Rector resided there. The Rector was chosen each month as a symbol of authority.  The serving term of the Rector was very short as 1 month, because it is said to avoid the Rector to seize the power to create dictatorship and to be corrupted. It is notable that the Rector served his job with no salary. So, yeah, long long time ago in Croatia, there was an ideal model of politics, and it seemed to work very well.


ドゥブロブニクは軍隊を持たない共和国だったそうです。軍隊のないこの小さな都市国家が繁栄した裏側には、しっかりとした要塞設備と巧みな外交手段によるものだそう。オスマン帝国に攻められた際も、税金を払うことで共和国の独立と貿易を守ることに成功したらしい。ちなみに、1416年にはすでに奴隷制度も廃止していて、ロヴリィエナッツ要塞の入口のモットーにあるように、自由を大切にしていたことがうかがわれます。

According to the guide book I've got with Dubrovnik Card, Dubrovnik Republic didn't have its own army. Dubrovnik wouldn't have prospered without its strong defensive fort system and skillful diplomacy. In fact,  when the Ottoman Empire attached the city to seize it, the republic succeeded in negotiating with Turks and both agreed to keep the autonomy of the republic by paying tax to the Ottoman Empire. Apparently, the tax was not as high as to collapse the republic, rather, Dubrovnik enjoyed its prosperity through trading with all over Europe while being protected (kind of) by the Ottoman Empire.

総督邸の中はそんなに広くないものの、中庭の階段や階段など、なかなか美しい作りになっています。展示物は決して多くなかったですが、その中でも金庫かな？宝箱のような箱に施されたものすご～く複雑で芸術品のようなカギのシステムが面白かったです。

The guide book states that Dubrovnik Republic abolished slavery and prohibited slave trading back in 1416. This tells that freedom is the motto of Dubrovnik, as seen on the entrance of Lovrijenac Fort.

Well, the inside of the palace was not that big, but it remains beautiful architecture such as the stairway and the gallery at the entrance. There weren't many things exhibited, although I was interested in small boxes, which I think were used as the safe or treasure boxes. They have very complex and detailed but very beautifully made artistic key lock system.





階段の手すりにこの手の彫刻がありました。何か意味があるのかな・・・？

All the railing of steps were held by this hand sculpture. Not sure if it has any meaning though....

このドアの上には、ドゥブロブニクが共和国だったころに政治モットーがラテン語で「Obliti Privatorum Publica Curate」と刻まれています。意味は「私事は忘れ、公共のために尽くせよ」。権力を握る人に対する戒めのようです。政治のあるべき姿をみた、と思いました。当然のことなのに、今の世界では完全に忘れられていること。

The letters inscribed on the door reads "Obliti Privatorum Publica Curate", meaning "Forget private affairs, take care of public ones". This was the basis political motto of the Dubrovnik Republic and inscribed at the door of the Rector's Palace to remind all those in power. What a nice phrase!












夜のライトアップされた総督邸。黄金に輝いていて、まるで昔の栄華を再現しているかのよう。

The Rector's Palace at night. It looks as if shine gold :)

ロヴリイェナッツ要塞 Fort Lovrijenac

ロヴリイェナッツ要塞はドゥブロブニクの旧市街の西側にぽつんと位置しています。行き道が分かりにくいので、地元の人に聞いてなんとかたどり着く。



The Fort Lovrijenac is located west of the cold city of Dubrovnik. The pathway to the fort is a bit hard to find. We asked a local people the pathway to the fort and managed to get there.





日差しが強いので、この階段を上るだけでもものすごく体力を消耗。ここまで来る観光客は少ないのか、私たちがロヴリイェナッツに行ったときは私たちの他に2組のカップルがいたくらい。

It was very hard to walk on steps up to Lovrijenac under this extremely strong sun! The steps are not that steep, and it won't be any problem to climb up steps if the sun did't hit us so strongly.

It seemed like not so many people come up to Lovrijenac. When we visited Lovrijenac, only a few couples except for us were there.





写真ではちょっと見にくいですが、ロヴリイェナッツ要塞の入り口には「NON BENE PRO TOTO LIBERTAS VENDITUR AURO（世界中のお金を持ってしても自由は売らず）」というドブロブニクのモットーが刻み込まれています。

The motto of Dubrovnik "NON BENE PRO TOTO LIBERTAS VENDITUR AURO" meaning "Liverty is not to be sold for all the gold (of the world)" is inscribed at the entrance of Lovrijenac.




ロヴリイェナッツ内部はこれと言った展示も何もないのですが、入口入ってすぐのホールが華やかさはないんだけれど、中世の面影たっぷりでなかなかステキ。ここもGame of Thronesの撮影現場に使われたらしい。この雰囲気はファンタジードラマにぴったり。どの場面で使われたのかな～なんて想像しながらドゥブロブニクを歩くのも楽しい。

There are nothing special to see inside the Lovrijenac, but the main hall near the entrance was very fascinating for me. The hall is very simple, but retains atmosphere of medieval time. The structure of the hall and the fort is very interesting.

The man at the ticket desk told us that Lovrijenac was also used for filming "Game of Thrones". It was fun to imagine which parts of Dubrovnik were filmed for Game of Thrones :)



ヴリイェナッツは要塞としてとても重要な役割を果たした場所。まるで今でもドゥブロブニクを外敵から守るかのように、アドリア海にもスルジ山にも標的を定めて大砲が飾ってあります。

There are cannons pointing at the Adriatic Sea and mount Srđ as if the fort still protects the old city of Dubrovnik.












ちなみに、要塞の壁の厚さは内陸側が6m、アドリア海側が4m、でも旧市街側はわずか1m。これは要塞に駐在する指揮官がドゥブロブニクの政権を転覆・掌握できないようにとの工夫だそう。もしそんなことが起こったとしても、60cmの壁はすぐに大砲で破られ、籠城している指揮官は降伏せざるを負えないように計算されてロヴリイェナッツは建てられたんですね。


The walls of the fort are made to be 6m on the landward side, 4m towards the Adriatic Sea, and only 1m towards the old city of Dubrovnik so that the commander of the fort could not overthrow the government. So, even if the commander attempted to capture the city, the thin wall of Lovrijenac is very easy to break by cannon, which would make the commander surrender very quickly.


ロヴリイェナッツから見たドゥブロブニク。こう見るとドゥブロブニクの旧市街は海側とスルジ山側に向かって坂になっているのが分かるかも。実際、かなり坂道が多くて歩くのは大変。

The view of Dubrovnik from Lovrijenac fort. As you can see from the photo, the old city of Dubrovnik is slope towards the sea and the mountain. In fact, the old city has lots of slopping streets, which are steeper than you probably imagine, especially towards the mount Srđ.



ここから夕日に照らされるドゥブロブニクが見れたらよかったのに・・・。サンセット前にロヴリイェナッツが閉まってしまうので、残念・・・。

そうそう、ロヴリイェナッツのテラスには日をよける屋根なんかもなく、アドリア海のものすごい強い日差しにさらされることになるので、要注意です！行くときはお水を持って、日焼け対策もしっかりしてくださいね。夏の間はできれば朝一番か、夕方に行くのがお勧め。とはいっても、朝一番の8時でもすでに太陽は高い位置で、干からびそうでしたが・・・

I wish I could see the Dubrovnik at sunset from Lovrijenac. But, unfortunately, the fort is closed before the sunset:(

By the way, there is no roof or anything to make shade at terrace of Lovrijenac, so be prepared well and bring water with you, because you will be exposed to the very very strong sun. If you visit Lovrijenac during summer, better to go there in the morning or evening. Although the sun was already high above us when we were there at 8am (the opening time of the fort)...