ザグレブっ子の夏の夜の過ごし方 Summer Night Out on Stross

９月に入って気温もぐっと下がって秋の陽気のザグレブですが、地元ザグレブっ子の夏の夜の楽しみシュトロス(Stross)を語らずに夏は終えません。夏の間のザグレブっ子の合言葉と言えば「じゃぁ、シュトロスに××時に！」っといった感じ。そんな風にザグレブっ子に愛される「シュトロス」はロトルシャチャク塔の下に東西に延びるStrossmayerという通り、ケーブルカーの出入り口の西側に夏の間出現します。

Unlike in the title of this article, it's already autumn in Zagreb and getting colder and colder every day. No more summer clothes... so sad :S Anyway, I should mention about how Zagrepčani (local Zagreb people) enjoy their summer night on Stross! During summer, when they meet friends, they say "Let's meet at ××pm on Stross!!". So you see how much Zagrepčani love Stross :) "Stross", pronounced as "shtros", is the West part of street called "Strossmayer" extending East and West in front of Lotrščak Tower.


シュトロスは５月２９日から９月２日まで開かれるサマーフェスティバルです。この期間中、毎晩７時、８時ごろからバンドの生演奏が聞けます。ライブミュージックは、ポップ、ロック、オールディーズ、ケルト音楽、ジャズ、ラテンと多岐に渡っていて、しかも毎晩違ったバンドが演奏するので頻繁に通っても飽きることはありません。

個人的にはケルト・ナイトとオールディーズが良かった！ケルト・ナイトの時は輪になって踊っている人もいたり、笑い声の絶えない楽しい夏の夜でした♪

ちなみに、オープンスペースなので入場料とかはありません。

Stross is a kind of a Summer Festival held from 29 May to 2 September. Every night different bands play music raging from pop music, rock, oldies, jazz to Celtic music around 7-8pm (end at 11:00pm). So, each night different live music is played, and you wouldn't get bored at all even if you visit Stross every night :) And it's ope-air music concert, so there is no entry charge for Stross.

Personally, I really liked the bands who played Celtic music and Oldies. On the Celtic music Night, some people started dancing in a circle to the music. It was such a great night, people were chatting, laughing, enjoying the music... :)

Actually, this reminds me a bit of "beer garden" in Japan. In Japan, many beer gardens open during summer to provide open-air space to enjoy cold beer and other drinks in the hot and steamy summer. Usually people go to the beer garden with colleagues after work or friends. So, you will see so many men in suit. Most of the beer gardens are found on the roof terrace of the buildings. But there are some interesting options, such as beer garden on a train/tram and on a boat :)

なんだかとってもエキゾチックな木の彫り物が飾ってありました。聞くところによるとシュトロスはパリのモンマルトルをまねて始まったそう。モンマルトルには未だ行ったことがないので、どの辺が似ているのか今一分からないけれど、パリの人々のように音楽と芸術の夜を楽しもうっ！っていうことなのかな???　

シュトロスには焼きトウモロコシやらポップコーンの屋台、ビールなどの飲み物を売っている屋台があります。でもほとんどの人はワインなど飲み物持参で来る人が多いです(^ ^;) 本当に地元の人が夜集まって、ライブミュージックを聞きながらおしゃべりを楽しむ場、っていう感じ。

Back to Stross... I found exotic wooden carvings hanging on trees. I've heard that the summer festival on Stross was inspired by Montmartre of Paris. I've never been to Montmartre, so I can't really compared those two, but I guess Stross started in the spirit of enjoying music and art like Parisians.

There are some stands selling grilled corn, popcorn, beer and other drink, painting, artistic goods and so on. But, many Zagrepčani bring their own drink and food to Stross. So, Stross is an open-air where people gather to see their friends, enjoy chatting and drinking with nice live music.

座る場所も少ないのでほとんどが立ち飲み＆立ち話です。「席を確保したかったら６時くらいに来ないとね」、とザグレブの友人が話しているように、とっても混み合います。地元のザグレブっ子ばっかりなので、ちょっと"アウェイ"な感じもしますが、機会があったらザグレブっ子の愛するシュトロスでザグレブの夏の夜を楽しんでみてください！詳細なプログラムは公式ウェブサイト（こちら）にあります。あれ？９月２日までってあったのに、９月２２日までバンド演奏のスケジュールが・・・。延長になったのかな???まぁ、そういう適当なところがクロアチアっぽい（笑）

There aren't so many chairs and benches to sit down on Stross, so most of people just stand to drink and chat. My local friend told me that if I want to reserve a table and bench, when I should come to Stross by 6pm. And when it's on Friday or Saturday, Stross gets really really crowded! I hardly see any foreigners there, but if you have time, visit Stross and enjoy summer in Zagreb with Zagrepčani! The detailed program of Stross Summer Festival can be found on their official website (here). Oh? I just found that still some band play music until 22 September, although the official website says that Stross opens until 2 September. Maybe they extended the schedule :) Sometimes, things doesn't go on schedule in Croatia. I think Croatian people are very flexible.

ドブロブニクの物価とレストラン Prices and Restaurants in Dubrovnik

夏のバケーションシーズンにはヨーロッパ中から観光客が押し寄せてくるほど、ブロブニクはヨーロッパ人にとって人気のリゾート地です。なので、レストランやカフェはいたるところにあって、食べるものには困りません。どこのレストランもシーフード料理が充実しています。しっかりした味付けで日本人にはなじみやすいかも。ちなみに、クロアチアではサラダを注文するとドレッシングなどかかっておらず、テーブルの上にあるオリーブオイルと酢をかけて食べるのが一般的。

Dubrovnik is the one of the most popular destination for European people for summer vacation. So, there are lots of restaurants and cafes inside and outside the Old City of Dubrovnik, and you wouldn't have any difficulty finding a restaurant there. Most of restaurants serve really good meat plates and seafood! As far as I tried, restaurants in Dubrovnik serve tasty food.

By the way, one thing I was a bit surprised in Croatia was that mostly, salad is brought to table undressed. So, usually, I have to pour olive oil and vinegar prepared on the table.

でもドブロブニクに旅行に行く、となると気になるのは物価。レストランでの食事は、ザグレブの30%～40%増しといったところ。コーヒー1杯大体18Kn、ピザ1枚約45Kn、パスタ約70Kn、ケーキ約30Knと、まぁ、他のヨーロッパの観光都市と比べたらまだまだ安い方かも。

But, I think many people wonder how pricey Dubrovnik is. I would say, prices in Dubrovnik is higher by 30 to 40 % compared to Zagreb. Still, I think Dubrovnik is not pricey compared to other major European touristic destinations.  For example, a cup of coffee in Dubrovnik is about 18Kn, a middle-size pizza is about 45Kn, a plate of pasta is about 70Kn, and a cake is about 30Kn.

旧市街内のレストランの方が断然割高なので、旧市街の外かLapad半島あたりのレストランがお勧め。

そうは言っても、ぜひお勧めしたいのはスルジ山にあるレストラン・パノラマ。運よくテラス席に座ることができると、ライトアップされたドゥブロブニクを見下ろしながら食事ができます。私たちはここでケーキとコーヒー（二人で合計90Kn)をいただきながら、静かなドゥブロブニクの夜景を（ほぼ）独占していました。

There are more restaurants in Lapad peninsula, and they are usually cheaper than restaurants in the Old City.

But, I really recommend Restaurant Panorama next to the cable car station on mount Srđ if you have time! If you are lucky enough to get a table on terrace, you will have a gorgeous view of Dubrovnik in front of you :) My husband and I had cakes and coffee (90Kn for both of us) at the table on the terrace, having a very romantic time with just chatting and enjoying the lit-up night view of Dubrovnik :)

他の日に行ったら、ちょうどサンセットを狙って、このレストランに来る人が多いらしく、夕食時は長～い列ができていました。できれば予約することをお勧めます。朝食(50Knくらい）も出しているらしい。このテラス席から朝日に照らされるドゥブロブニクを見ながら朝食なんて、ものすごい優雅な時間！次に来るときは、ここで朝食を取るぞ！と心に決めてスルジ山を後にしました・・・。

When we visited the restaurant the other day just after the sunset, there are many people queuing up for dinner! So, I would recommend you to book a table before you go. Also, the restaurant serves breakfast (about 50Kn). Having breakfast on that terrace table over the panorama of Dubrovnik hit by the morning sun would be such an elegant morning :) I would definitely love to have breakfast at the restaurant next time when I visit Dubrovnik!

Restaurant PANORAMA
Brsalje 1, 20000 Dubrovnik
Tel: 020 321-664


レストランはケーブルカーの稼働時間に合わせているみたいです。冬期は営業時間が短いので気を付けてください。ちなみに、スルジ山の上は、6月末でも日が落ちると寒かったです。テーブルにひざ掛けがあってよかった(>_<)

The opening hour of the restaurant Panorama changes depending on the operating hour of the cable car (see the pic). Also, after the sunset, the temperature suddenly dropped on the mount Srđ, and it was actually very cold even in the end of June! Lucky that the restaurant prepared rugs for us...


プレチェ門を入ったすぐ近くにあるレストラン、REVELIN CLUB。ここのテラス席からはドゥブロブニクの旧港が見渡すことができて、この中世な街の雰囲気がステキ。テラス席は食事をする人のみで、コーヒー、デザートだけだと手前の席に案内されます。

We also had lunch and coffee at a restaurant called REVELIN CLUB located near the Ploče gate. The curtains at the terrace give it very Roman atmosphere, and I really liked it :) And from there, you will have a great view of Dubrovnik Port.


レストランREVELIN CLUBでいただいたチョコレートケーキ（34Kn)、バナナ・スプリット(39Kn)、コーヒーと紅茶（それぞれ18Kn)。ケーキの値段がザグレブのカフェの倍くらいしていたけど、チョコレートケーキがものすっごくおいしかったので良しとしよう！ちなみに、ディナーのピーク時は席が空いていてもカフェの利用は断られてしまいました(>_<)カフェを利用したい場合、夕方の早い時間か夜の10時以降なら大丈夫そうです。

The photo shows the chocolate cake (34Kn), Banana Split (39Kn), coffee (18Kn) and tea (18Kn) we ordered. Comparing to prices of cakes in Zagreb, they were very expensive, almost double! But, the chocolate cake was super tasty and I didn't regret for that :)

By the way, when we returned for coffee the other day during the peak time of dinner, we were refused to have coffee and cake even though there was a table available :( So, if you want have only coffee and cake at the restaurant, avoid the peak time of dinner!

ザグレブの街を見下ろしながらランチ Enjoy Lunch with Lovely View of Zagreb

もう1か月ほど前になりますが、私の誕生日のお祝いにザグレブのレストラン、Pod Gričkim Topom（ウェブサイトはこちら）でランチを楽しみました。このレストランは世界一短いと言われるケーブルカーに乗ってアッパータウンで降りたすぐ近くにあります。

My husband took me to my favourite restaurant in Zagreb called "Pod Gričkim Topom（website）" for my birthday. The restaurant is located at the Upper Town just next to the entrance/exit of "the world shortest funicular". My birthday was April and I wore a coat, but in a few days later, I spent all the day in a T-shirt. The weather in Zagreb in the spring is unpredictable - it could be very hot and dry, but it could be a bit cold and windy in the next day.



レストランの中は木のぬくもりが周りの自然に調和してとても居心地のいい雰囲気です。実際、街の中なのに、レストラン内はとても静かで、鳥のさえずりに耳を澄ませながら、目下に広がるザグレブの街並みを楽しみながらお食事ができます。

The wood tables and antique furniture of the restaurant matches very well with the nature and make very cozy space. The restaurant is situated in the centre of Zagreb, but inside the restaurant is very quiet. I had a great time there with tasty lunch while enjoying green nature and birds singing :)

メニューの価格は、他のザグレブのレストランと比べて高めなので、お客さんは外国人が多いかな。ちょうど私たちがランチを楽しんでいるとき、日本大使館からのオーダーが。ランチの時はよほど大丈夫ですが、ディナーは予約をすることをお勧めします。

The prices of their menu is higher than normal restaurants where local people go, but not overpriced I think. So, I realise that most of the guests at the restaurants are non-Croatian people.  If you go to this restaurant for lunch, usually you can find a table without reservation, but for dinner, especially on special occasions such as Christmas and Valentine's Day, definitely better to book a table.

この写真は1年以上前に撮ったもので、ちょっと古いですが・・・。春のやわらかい日差しが差し込む、緑に囲まれたテラス席で、ゆったりとしたランチの時間が心地よかったです。このときいただいたのはトリュフのパスタ（大体78Ｋｎ）。他のレストランではクリームベースのトリュフパスタが多い中、オイルベースであっさりとてして、とてもおいしかったです。ボリュームも味付けも日本人にはちょうどいい感じ。1年前は今と比べてだいぶ痩せてたなぁ・・・ちょっとダイエットしなきゃ(；´Д｀)

This photo was actually taken more than one year ago, so I look a bit different (mostly because I gained some weight...). The table at the terrace was great especially on a sunny spring day :) I ordered truffle pasta (about 78Kn). The volume of the food was just right for me (and for most Japanese). I often find truffle pasta with cream sauce at other restaurants, but this restaurant served the truffle pasta with olive oil sauce, which was not too heavy and indeed very tasty.

レストランの環境も、サービスも、料理も素晴らしいんですが、デザートは格別。毎回、行くたびに違うデザートが用意されているので、それも楽しみの一つです。

The restaurant is located in the great place looking down the city of Zagreb while enjoying the peaceful time in the nature, has a great service and served wonderful plates. But, you can't leave without having their desert! Every time I visit there, they prepare new desert. So, it is one of amusements of the restaurant, too.

誕生日のときは、イチゴとマスカルポーネをパイ生地の器に入れたものがデザートをいただいました。
ザグレブでゆっくりおいしいお食事を楽しみたいときにお勧めのレストランです。

For my birthday, I had a cake of strawberries and Mascarpone cream in a cup of pie. Yummy yummy :P
Enjoy both the view of the charming city of Zagreb and great food at this restaurant when you come to Zagreb :)

大きな地図で見る

クロアチア料理 ピイェスカヴィッツァ Croatian local food Pljeskavica

クロアチアを含め旧ユーゴスラビアの国で親しまれている料理のひとつにピリィェスカピッツァ(Pljeskavica)という、日本でいうハンバーグがあります。ラム肉、牛肉、ポークなどいろいろなお肉を混ぜ合わせたハンバーグにチーズやカイマック(Kajmak)と呼ばれるクリームサワーチーズと生の玉ねぎが乗った料理です。これに肉を焼くときに出る肉汁に浸したパン（Lepinja)がついてきます。ちなみに、イスラム圏のボスニアではポークは使われていないPjeskavicaが出されるみたいです。

Grill Pub Grana

  ザグレブでPljeskavicaがおいしい、地元クロアチア人おすすめレストランはGrill Pub Grana (ウェブサイト）。ザグレブの中心部からかなり離れたヤルン湖 (Jarun) の近くにあります。5番または17番のトラムに乗って、路線の最終駅から3番目のPetrovaradinskaという駅で降りるのが一番近いと思います。お客さんのほとんどは地元の人なので、ザグレブで地元料理を食べたい！という人にはおすすめ。ウェブサイトでメニューを見る場合は「Jelovnik」を、詳しい地図を見る場合は「Naša Lokacija」をクリックしてみてください。営業時間は朝の9時から夜の11時まで。夏は、オーナーがバケーションで店が閉まっていることもあるので注意。
 　
  このお店の量もクロアチアンサイズなので、Pljeskavica (35Kn)　とサラダや付け合せ（とは思えない量の）フライドポテト（Pommes Frites　ポン・フリット 10Kn）をシェアします。Pljeskavica 自体は塩味がものすごい効いていて、最初食べた時はその塩辛さにびっくり。でも上にたっぷり乗ったカイマックと生タマネギが調和してくれる感じ。けっこう癖になる味かな。生タマネギ、食べた後の口臭がすごいことになるので、人に会う前は避けた方がいいかも・・・。肉汁に浸して焼いたパン(Lepinja)もなかなかおいしいのだけれど、カロリーが気になる。クロアチア全体に言えるのだけれど、塩とかコショウとか追加しなくてもいいくらいに料理にはしっかり塩というか味がついています。

One of the most popular Croatian food (well, at least around Zagreb and maybe not so much in the sea side) is Pljeskavica, which is also widely eaten in the former Yugoslav countries. Pljeskavica uses various minced meat, such as chicken minced meat, beef minced meat, pork minced meat and so on. But in Bosnia, which is an Islamic country, the pork meat is not used for any food including Pljeskavica.

  If you look for a good Pljeskavica restaurant, I would recommend the Grill Pub Grana near the Lake Jarun. When you order a Pljeskavica, usually you will also have non-cooked onion, cheese or Kajmak (sour cream cheese) and Lepinja. Lepinja is a type of bread slightly baked with meat oil of Pljeskavica. The price of Pljeskavica including the onion, the cheese or Kajmak, and the Lepinja is only 35 Kn.

Pljeskavica with Kajmak

  When I first tasted the Pljeskavica, I was a bit shocked by its very salty taste! But the onion and Kajmak balance out and make the taste of the salty Pljeskavica a bit more mild, and actually it is very tasty. Actually, I would say that food in Croatia in general is a bit salty that you don't have to add more salt or pepper. By the way, when you have an appointment with someone, don't eat onions with the Pljeskavica! I think it is a joke, but I've heard that there is a rule: when someone eat onions with Pljeskavica or ćevapi, everyone has to follow so that no one complain about smell :)

  The Grill Pub Grana is located a bit far away from the centre of Zagreb. To get there, you need to take tram No. 5 or 17 and stop at Petrovaradinska station, which is the third station from the last. You can check the detailed map on the website of the restaurant by clicking "Naša Lokacija". Also, you can check their menu by clicking "Jelovnik". The opening hours of the restaurant is from 9:00 to 23:00.

大きな地図で見る

クロアチアでチップは必要? Custom of Tipping in Croatia

レストランで食事が済んだら、次はお会計。お会計は基本的にテーブル会計です。お会計をお願いするときは、

Račun, molim! （らチュン　モーリム！）

とウェイターさんに言うと、レシートを持ってきてくれます。これはとても丁寧な言い方になります。ウェイターさんがフレンドリーだったら、こっちの言い方のほうがいいかも。

Može račun!　（モジェ　らチュン！）

これだと砕けすぎだし、あんまり丁寧すぎてもなぁ、という場合は、最後に「molim (モーリム)」を付けて、Može račun, molim!　（モジェ　らチュン、モーリム！）でOK。ウェイターさんもゆっくりしていてなかなか来てくれない場合もありますが、のんびり待ってみましょう(^ ^;)　

さてさて、クロアチアにチップの習慣があるか、とクロアチア人に聞いてみると義務じゃないけれど暗黙の了解みたいなのがあって、合計料金の5～10%くらいをチップとしてテーブルに置いていくらしいです。チップはそんなに厳密に計算しなくてもよく、例えば合計が57Knのとき、60Knに切り上げるという形で十分。そんなとき、お会計でウェイターさんに「おつりは取っておいて！」という意味の

Sve u redu! （すヴぇ　うレドゥ！）

と言えば、にっこり笑って「Hvala! (フヴぁ―ら！）」と見送ってくれると思います。"Sve u redu"は直訳すると"全てOK"。英語で言えば"Everything is fine"で、例えば食事中ウェイターさんに何か必要なものがあるか、もっと食べるか聞かれたり、あるいは追加注文があるかどうか聞かれたりしたときに、「いや、このままで十分です。」という意味でも使えます。"Hvala"はクロアチア語で「ありがとう」の意味です。

ホテルに宿泊したときのチップは、というとフランスやアメリカのように枕元にチップを置く習慣はありません。

Payment at restaurants in Croatia is "pay-at-the table" system. On the other hand, in Japan, we pay at a cash reｇister at most restaurants and Izakaya. When we dine at Izakaya with friends, we usually split the bill. So, we ask our waiter to bring us the bill first, and then pay at the cash reｇister. When you want to ask the waiter to bring the bill to the table, say "Okaikei, Onegai-shimasu! お会計、お願いします!", meaning "the bill, please". In Croatia, you would say,

Račun, molim!

This is very polite and formal way of asking the bill. If your waiter is very friendly, you can also way in this way:

Može račun!

I've heard that many Croats use this way. This has a meaning similar to "bring me the bill". If you want to be a bit more polite, you can add "molim" to the end of sentence: Može račun, molim! By the way, this letter "č" is pronounced "ch" of "church".

I asked my husband if Croatia has the custom of tipping. He told me that the tipping is not mandatory, but many people leave about 5 to 10% of the total bill on the table when they left the restaurant or cafe if they are happy with the food and the service. You can also round up to the nearest number when you pay. For example, if the total amount is 57Kn, you can round up to 60Kn when you pay to your waiter. To tell the waiter to keep the change, you would say:

Sve u redu!

meaning, "everything is fine". This is very useful sentence and you can use this words in various situations. This words can be used as "everything is fine as it is" when your waiter asks you if you need anything additional while you enjoy your plates, or when you are asked if you want to eat more at your friend's dinner party or something.

As for the tipping at accommodations, I've heard that there is no custom of leaving tips on a side table of a bed. So, you don't have to worry about the tipping on hotels.

料理の量が多いとき・・・ Food portions in Croatia

クロアチアはレストランで食事を注文すると、ものすごい量のものが運ばれてきます。オーストラリア（メルボルン）のレストラン以上の量に、最初はびっくりしました。女の子2人なら1人分を頼んでシェアしてもおなかいっぱ いになるくらい。私と旦那がピッツァリアに行くと、サラダ1人前、ピッツァのミドルサイズ1枚かラザニア1人前をシェアします。それでも残さずに食べ るので精一杯くらい。これにケーキをシェアするとお腹がはちきれそうになる。

Half lasagna of Capuciner

  以前、2人でレストランに入って、お互いに1人前頼んだら、半分でギブアップ。それを見たウェイターさんに「どうしたんだ！元気がないなぁ～。もっと食べろ！」と言われてしまった・・・。「全部食べるまで帰っちゃだめだよ」って言われたこともあるなぁ。クロアチアはモノにあふれている国だ、と身をもって知りました。

  レストランで注文するときに、料理をシェアする、と言うとラザニアもピッツァも半分ずつに分けて持ってきてくれることが多いです。親切。料理をシェアしたい場合、注文するときに

Može ..., po pola, molim. (モジェ (料理の名前、指差しながら 'to' でもOK)、ぽ　ポーラ、モーリム).

と言いましょう。意味は「半分ずつでお願いします。」。「to (ト)」はクロアチア語で「これ」という意味です。「pola (ポラ、ポーラ)」は「半分」、で「molim (モーリム)」は英語で言うpleaseにあたる言葉です。または、先にピッツァなりを頼んで、「Može po pola, molim.」でもOK。ちなみに「molim」はつけると丁寧な感じになるけれど、別に言わなくてもウェイターの人は気を悪くしたりはしないらしい。反対に「molim」をつけないほうが早くフレンドリーな感じになれるからいい、と思うクロアチア人もいるみたい。

  そうすると、上の写真みたいにきれいに半分にされたラザニアが運ばれてきます。これはザグレブの聖母被昇天大聖堂の目の前にあるCapucinerというレストランのラザニア(35Kn)。ラザニアは今のところ、ここが一番かな。


The food portions at restaurants in Croatia are huge when comparing to Japan. I think the food portions here is as much as, or could be bigger than Australia. So, when I ordered food (a plate of meat :)) at a restaurant in Zagreb for the first time, I was so shocked to see them and I barely finished one third of them...

  When my husband and I eat at a restaurant, we usually share a bowl of salad, a middle-size pizza or a lasagna. Even though, we barely finish them all... I must admit that I eat less when comparing to my female friends, and my husband also eats less than average Croatian men. Waiters here in Croatia are generally very friendly, and one time, when our waiter saw us struggling with food, he said "Hey, what's wrong? Eat, eat!". And other time, a waiter jokingly told us "you can't go home until you finish it!" :P

Pizza from Eataly Daikanyama (Tokyo)

  So, anyway, since we learnt that we can't eat a full portion of meal, we mostly share plates. Usually, when tell a waiter that we share a plate when we order, a restaurant split it on two plates, like a photo above :) When you want to share a plate, say the following words to your waiter when you order:

  Može (name of food), po pola, molim.

This means "half and half, please". You can use the word "to" instead of the name of food. "To" means "it", and be careful not to pronounce it like English "to", which I often did it until I get used to the Croatian letters. "To" should be pronounced as "to" of "toy". You can also say, "Lasagne. Može po pola, molim."

  The word "molim" means "please" in English. But, I've been told that I don't have to say "molim" when I order at a restaurant. As a Japanese, I think I prefer to be polite even to waiters, but in Croatia, people prefer to be friendly. Using the word "molim" may sound too formal, and people may think it sounds more friendly without using that word. When you are friendly to your waiters, he/she would be friendly and even share some jokes with you ;)

  By the way, I wrote "lasagne" in the sentence above, because in Croatian language, one lasagna is called lasagne, and lasagna is plural.

  The half lasagna on the first photo is from Capuciner, which is located in front of the Cathedral. One lasagna costs only 35 kn and I think they serve the best lasagna in Zagreb :)

クロアチアのレストラン Restaurants in Croatia

クロアチアは、大きく肉料理中心の地域と地中海料理の地域とに分かれています。オーストリアやハンガリーに近いスラヴォニア地方やザグレブなどクロアチア中心部は肉料理、海岸沿いのイストリア地方やダルマチア地方は魚料理とかイタリア料理が中心です。クロアチアはイタリアに近いこともあって、ここザグレブでもおいしいピッツァとかパスタ料理のお店がたくさんあります。しかも安い!

　普通に地元の人が行くピッツァリアとかレストランになりますが、ザグレブでは、日本で言うLサイズのピッツァ1枚がこちらではミドルサイズでだいたい35Kn (2012年2月時点で1Kn＝約13.5円）くらいと日本に比べたらだいぶ安いです。飲み物も、コーラ250mlで約12Kn。ラザニアが約35Kn。トリュフソースのパスタが約80Kn。　日本で食べると高価なトリュフも、さすがトリュフ生産地だけあって、お安く食べることができます。でも原型をとどめないトリュフの粉（?）が黒い点々として見えるくらい・・・。普通レベルのレストランでは過度な期待はしないほうがいいかも。トリュフのパスタは大体クリームソース。たま～にオイルベースのソースをみるくらい。

  スプリットやドゥブロブニクのレストランは観光地だけあって、ザグレブよりも20%～30%くらい割高。

　下の写真はBaschieraというピッツァリアのメニュー表。ザグレブ内に3店舗構えているけれど、どこも中心からはちょっと距離があるかな。一番近いのは3号店でザグレブ中心のイェラチッチ広場から東にJurišceva通り、Martićeva通りを歩いていって突き当たるŠubićeva通りを南に数メートル行った所にあります。インテリアがモダンで、おしゃれで開放的な雰囲気のピッツァリアです。味も地元の人お勧めだけあって、おいしいです。

Menu of Baschiera

The Croatian cuisine is diverse depending on regions. For example, the cuisine in the region called Slavonija and around Zagreb, which are located closer to Hungary and Austria, have influence of Austrian and Hungarian cuisines. On the other hand, the cuisine in the coast region has influence from the Mediterranean and Italian food. So, in Croatia and here in Zagreb, you can find really nice Italian restaurants and pizzerias. And they are very cheap! Much much cheaper than in Japan, definitely.

  For example, at a standard pizzeria where local Zagreb people go, you can buy a middle size of pizza for about 35Kn, a 250ml bottle of coke is about 12Kn, and a small size of salad for about 15Kn. The middle size of pizza in Zagreb pizzeria is actually the same size as, or could be bigger than, a large size pizza in Japan. And a large size pizza in Japan costs over 30 euros!

  Many people think that everything in Japan is extremely expensive. But, it actually is not true. In Japan, you can find cheap food at Japanese-style pubs called Izakaya, on the other hand, you can also find high-end restaurants. Izakaya is a pub, but offers verious types of food in small plates, so you can try many different Japanese domestic food there. When I have dinner at an Italian cafe/izakaya with 3 to 4 female friends of mine, I spend about 25 euros on average including 2 glasses of alcohol beverage. Maybe it's not common outside Japan, or more broadly outside Asia, but we usually share plates. So, when I have dinner with my friends at the restaurants, we order a salad, a few appetizers, some small plates of chicken, a medium size of pizza (meaning, a small size of pizza here :)) and a past to share, and drinks and cakes for each.

  In Japan, usually, restaurants offers different menu between lunch and dinner. Prices for lunch is much cheaper than dinner even at a relatively expensive restaurant. Lunch at standard restaurants is in a range between 8 euros to 15 euros. You can also find a cheaper option at a chain Gyudon restaurant, such as Yoshinoya and Sukiya, where you can eat Gyudon (a bowl of rice topped with beef and onion) for less than 4 euros :) Gyudon is something like, pizza for Italian and hamburger for Americans.

  Anyway, going back to Croatian restaurants, I think prices of food at tourist destinations, such as Split, Dubrovnik and so on are higher than Zagreb by 20 to 30%.

  The menu on the photo above is from a pizzeria called Baschiera. The pizzeria was recommended by local people and they do have really good pizza! They have 3 branches in Zagreb, but I think the one on the Šubićeva street is the closest from the centre of Zagreb. How to get there? Well, walk along the Jurišceva street and the Martićeva street from the Jelačića square to the East, and when you reach the Šubićeva street, walk to the South for a few meters, and you will find the pizzeria. It also has very nice and modern interior design :)