クロアチアでチップは必要? Custom of Tipping in Croatia

レストランで食事が済んだら、次はお会計。お会計は基本的にテーブル会計です。お会計をお願いするときは、

Račun, molim! （らチュン　モーリム！）

とウェイターさんに言うと、レシートを持ってきてくれます。これはとても丁寧な言い方になります。ウェイターさんがフレンドリーだったら、こっちの言い方のほうがいいかも。

Može račun!　（モジェ　らチュン！）

これだと砕けすぎだし、あんまり丁寧すぎてもなぁ、という場合は、最後に「molim (モーリム)」を付けて、Može račun, molim!　（モジェ　らチュン、モーリム！）でOK。ウェイターさんもゆっくりしていてなかなか来てくれない場合もありますが、のんびり待ってみましょう(^ ^;)　

さてさて、クロアチアにチップの習慣があるか、とクロアチア人に聞いてみると義務じゃないけれど暗黙の了解みたいなのがあって、合計料金の5～10%くらいをチップとしてテーブルに置いていくらしいです。チップはそんなに厳密に計算しなくてもよく、例えば合計が57Knのとき、60Knに切り上げるという形で十分。そんなとき、お会計でウェイターさんに「おつりは取っておいて！」という意味の

Sve u redu! （すヴぇ　うレドゥ！）

と言えば、にっこり笑って「Hvala! (フヴぁ―ら！）」と見送ってくれると思います。"Sve u redu"は直訳すると"全てOK"。英語で言えば"Everything is fine"で、例えば食事中ウェイターさんに何か必要なものがあるか、もっと食べるか聞かれたり、あるいは追加注文があるかどうか聞かれたりしたときに、「いや、このままで十分です。」という意味でも使えます。"Hvala"はクロアチア語で「ありがとう」の意味です。

ホテルに宿泊したときのチップは、というとフランスやアメリカのように枕元にチップを置く習慣はありません。

Payment at restaurants in Croatia is "pay-at-the table" system. On the other hand, in Japan, we pay at a cash reｇister at most restaurants and Izakaya. When we dine at Izakaya with friends, we usually split the bill. So, we ask our waiter to bring us the bill first, and then pay at the cash reｇister. When you want to ask the waiter to bring the bill to the table, say "Okaikei, Onegai-shimasu! お会計、お願いします!", meaning "the bill, please". In Croatia, you would say,

Račun, molim!

This is very polite and formal way of asking the bill. If your waiter is very friendly, you can also way in this way:

Može račun!

I've heard that many Croats use this way. This has a meaning similar to "bring me the bill". If you want to be a bit more polite, you can add "molim" to the end of sentence: Može račun, molim! By the way, this letter "č" is pronounced "ch" of "church".

I asked my husband if Croatia has the custom of tipping. He told me that the tipping is not mandatory, but many people leave about 5 to 10% of the total bill on the table when they left the restaurant or cafe if they are happy with the food and the service. You can also round up to the nearest number when you pay. For example, if the total amount is 57Kn, you can round up to 60Kn when you pay to your waiter. To tell the waiter to keep the change, you would say:

Sve u redu!

meaning, "everything is fine". This is very useful sentence and you can use this words in various situations. This words can be used as "everything is fine as it is" when your waiter asks you if you need anything additional while you enjoy your plates, or when you are asked if you want to eat more at your friend's dinner party or something.

As for the tipping at accommodations, I've heard that there is no custom of leaving tips on a side table of a bed. So, you don't have to worry about the tipping on hotels.

料理の量が多いとき・・・ Food portions in Croatia

クロアチアはレストランで食事を注文すると、ものすごい量のものが運ばれてきます。オーストラリア（メルボルン）のレストラン以上の量に、最初はびっくりしました。女の子2人なら1人分を頼んでシェアしてもおなかいっぱ いになるくらい。私と旦那がピッツァリアに行くと、サラダ1人前、ピッツァのミドルサイズ1枚かラザニア1人前をシェアします。それでも残さずに食べ るので精一杯くらい。これにケーキをシェアするとお腹がはちきれそうになる。

Half lasagna of Capuciner

  以前、2人でレストランに入って、お互いに1人前頼んだら、半分でギブアップ。それを見たウェイターさんに「どうしたんだ！元気がないなぁ～。もっと食べろ！」と言われてしまった・・・。「全部食べるまで帰っちゃだめだよ」って言われたこともあるなぁ。クロアチアはモノにあふれている国だ、と身をもって知りました。

  レストランで注文するときに、料理をシェアする、と言うとラザニアもピッツァも半分ずつに分けて持ってきてくれることが多いです。親切。料理をシェアしたい場合、注文するときに

Može ..., po pola, molim. (モジェ (料理の名前、指差しながら 'to' でもOK)、ぽ　ポーラ、モーリム).

と言いましょう。意味は「半分ずつでお願いします。」。「to (ト)」はクロアチア語で「これ」という意味です。「pola (ポラ、ポーラ)」は「半分」、で「molim (モーリム)」は英語で言うpleaseにあたる言葉です。または、先にピッツァなりを頼んで、「Može po pola, molim.」でもOK。ちなみに「molim」はつけると丁寧な感じになるけれど、別に言わなくてもウェイターの人は気を悪くしたりはしないらしい。反対に「molim」をつけないほうが早くフレンドリーな感じになれるからいい、と思うクロアチア人もいるみたい。

  そうすると、上の写真みたいにきれいに半分にされたラザニアが運ばれてきます。これはザグレブの聖母被昇天大聖堂の目の前にあるCapucinerというレストランのラザニア(35Kn)。ラザニアは今のところ、ここが一番かな。


The food portions at restaurants in Croatia are huge when comparing to Japan. I think the food portions here is as much as, or could be bigger than Australia. So, when I ordered food (a plate of meat :)) at a restaurant in Zagreb for the first time, I was so shocked to see them and I barely finished one third of them...

  When my husband and I eat at a restaurant, we usually share a bowl of salad, a middle-size pizza or a lasagna. Even though, we barely finish them all... I must admit that I eat less when comparing to my female friends, and my husband also eats less than average Croatian men. Waiters here in Croatia are generally very friendly, and one time, when our waiter saw us struggling with food, he said "Hey, what's wrong? Eat, eat!". And other time, a waiter jokingly told us "you can't go home until you finish it!" :P

Pizza from Eataly Daikanyama (Tokyo)

  So, anyway, since we learnt that we can't eat a full portion of meal, we mostly share plates. Usually, when tell a waiter that we share a plate when we order, a restaurant split it on two plates, like a photo above :) When you want to share a plate, say the following words to your waiter when you order:

  Može (name of food), po pola, molim.

This means "half and half, please". You can use the word "to" instead of the name of food. "To" means "it", and be careful not to pronounce it like English "to", which I often did it until I get used to the Croatian letters. "To" should be pronounced as "to" of "toy". You can also say, "Lasagne. Može po pola, molim."

  The word "molim" means "please" in English. But, I've been told that I don't have to say "molim" when I order at a restaurant. As a Japanese, I think I prefer to be polite even to waiters, but in Croatia, people prefer to be friendly. Using the word "molim" may sound too formal, and people may think it sounds more friendly without using that word. When you are friendly to your waiters, he/she would be friendly and even share some jokes with you ;)

  By the way, I wrote "lasagne" in the sentence above, because in Croatian language, one lasagna is called lasagne, and lasagna is plural.

  The half lasagna on the first photo is from Capuciner, which is located in front of the Cathedral. One lasagna costs only 35 kn and I think they serve the best lasagna in Zagreb :)

クロアチアのレストラン Restaurants in Croatia

クロアチアは、大きく肉料理中心の地域と地中海料理の地域とに分かれています。オーストリアやハンガリーに近いスラヴォニア地方やザグレブなどクロアチア中心部は肉料理、海岸沿いのイストリア地方やダルマチア地方は魚料理とかイタリア料理が中心です。クロアチアはイタリアに近いこともあって、ここザグレブでもおいしいピッツァとかパスタ料理のお店がたくさんあります。しかも安い!

　普通に地元の人が行くピッツァリアとかレストランになりますが、ザグレブでは、日本で言うLサイズのピッツァ1枚がこちらではミドルサイズでだいたい35Kn (2012年2月時点で1Kn＝約13.5円）くらいと日本に比べたらだいぶ安いです。飲み物も、コーラ250mlで約12Kn。ラザニアが約35Kn。トリュフソースのパスタが約80Kn。　日本で食べると高価なトリュフも、さすがトリュフ生産地だけあって、お安く食べることができます。でも原型をとどめないトリュフの粉（?）が黒い点々として見えるくらい・・・。普通レベルのレストランでは過度な期待はしないほうがいいかも。トリュフのパスタは大体クリームソース。たま～にオイルベースのソースをみるくらい。

  スプリットやドゥブロブニクのレストランは観光地だけあって、ザグレブよりも20%～30%くらい割高。

　下の写真はBaschieraというピッツァリアのメニュー表。ザグレブ内に3店舗構えているけれど、どこも中心からはちょっと距離があるかな。一番近いのは3号店でザグレブ中心のイェラチッチ広場から東にJurišceva通り、Martićeva通りを歩いていって突き当たるŠubićeva通りを南に数メートル行った所にあります。インテリアがモダンで、おしゃれで開放的な雰囲気のピッツァリアです。味も地元の人お勧めだけあって、おいしいです。

Menu of Baschiera

The Croatian cuisine is diverse depending on regions. For example, the cuisine in the region called Slavonija and around Zagreb, which are located closer to Hungary and Austria, have influence of Austrian and Hungarian cuisines. On the other hand, the cuisine in the coast region has influence from the Mediterranean and Italian food. So, in Croatia and here in Zagreb, you can find really nice Italian restaurants and pizzerias. And they are very cheap! Much much cheaper than in Japan, definitely.

  For example, at a standard pizzeria where local Zagreb people go, you can buy a middle size of pizza for about 35Kn, a 250ml bottle of coke is about 12Kn, and a small size of salad for about 15Kn. The middle size of pizza in Zagreb pizzeria is actually the same size as, or could be bigger than, a large size pizza in Japan. And a large size pizza in Japan costs over 30 euros!

  Many people think that everything in Japan is extremely expensive. But, it actually is not true. In Japan, you can find cheap food at Japanese-style pubs called Izakaya, on the other hand, you can also find high-end restaurants. Izakaya is a pub, but offers verious types of food in small plates, so you can try many different Japanese domestic food there. When I have dinner at an Italian cafe/izakaya with 3 to 4 female friends of mine, I spend about 25 euros on average including 2 glasses of alcohol beverage. Maybe it's not common outside Japan, or more broadly outside Asia, but we usually share plates. So, when I have dinner with my friends at the restaurants, we order a salad, a few appetizers, some small plates of chicken, a medium size of pizza (meaning, a small size of pizza here :)) and a past to share, and drinks and cakes for each.

  In Japan, usually, restaurants offers different menu between lunch and dinner. Prices for lunch is much cheaper than dinner even at a relatively expensive restaurant. Lunch at standard restaurants is in a range between 8 euros to 15 euros. You can also find a cheaper option at a chain Gyudon restaurant, such as Yoshinoya and Sukiya, where you can eat Gyudon (a bowl of rice topped with beef and onion) for less than 4 euros :) Gyudon is something like, pizza for Italian and hamburger for Americans.

  Anyway, going back to Croatian restaurants, I think prices of food at tourist destinations, such as Split, Dubrovnik and so on are higher than Zagreb by 20 to 30%.

  The menu on the photo above is from a pizzeria called Baschiera. The pizzeria was recommended by local people and they do have really good pizza! They have 3 branches in Zagreb, but I think the one on the Šubićeva street is the closest from the centre of Zagreb. How to get there? Well, walk along the Jurišceva street and the Martićeva street from the Jelačića square to the East, and when you reach the Šubićeva street, walk to the South for a few meters, and you will find the pizzeria. It also has very nice and modern interior design :)

初クロアチア First Trip to Croatia

初めてクロアチアを訪れたのは、2005年にクロアチアのドゥブロブニクを知ってからだいぶ後の2010年の夏。10日間でザグレブ、トラコシュチャン城、プリトヴィッツェ、トロギール、スプリット、ストン、ドゥブロブニクを周りました。

去年あたりからだいぶクロアチアがメディアで取り上げられるようになって、日本人のクロアチアへの理解・関心も高まってきていますが、私がクロアチアへ旅行に行くと言ったときの周りの反応は「大丈夫？旧社会主義国で危ないんじゃないの？」 というものでした。その時の周りの人のクロアチアの認識は「最近まで戦争をしていた旧社会主義国＝貧しい→治安が悪そう」、というものでした。

事実、独立戦争が終わってまだ15年しか経っていないし、まだまだ発展途上の国なんじゃないかな、なんて私も思っていました。初めてザグレブの道路を走った時は、たくさんの車、思った以上に日本車が走っているのにまずびっくり！行く先々でドイツ、イタリア、ポーランド、チェコなどの国からの観光客の多さにびっくり！2005年時点では「ヨーロッパ人の間でひそかなブームのクロアチア」が今では大人気の観光地になっていました。日本にいた時には想像できなかったくらい活気にあふれた国、クロアチア。治安も常識的なことを守っていれば特に心配することのないくらいで、クロアチアはヨーロッパの中でもかなり治安のいい国に位置付けられているようです。

きっと私みたいにクロアチアに対して少なからず思い違いをしていたり誤解していたりする人もいるんじゃないかなぁ、と思います。このブログを通じて、今のクロアチア、クロアチアの本当の姿をお伝えできればと思っています。

It was summer 2010 when I visited Croatia for the first time, after 5 years since I saw Dubrovnik on TV. I visited Zagreb, the Trakošćan Castle, the Plitvice National Park, Trogir, Split, Ston and Dubrovnik in 10 days.

  By the way, it is not easy to take a week off if you work at a Japanese company. Many companies follow the national calender, meaning, employees have day off on national holidays, which we have once in a month average. It's not a problem to take a few days off, but taking a week or two is troublesome. On the other hand, some companies have their own calender, like the company I have worked for. According to my company's calender, we don't have day off on national holidays, instead, it gives us 7 to 10 holiday including Saturday and Sunday in April to March (which we call Golden Week), in August and in December to January.  So, I took a few days off and connected them to the summer holiday given by the company. I think I was very lucky that my boss always allowed me to have a bit longer holiday so that I can travel.

  So, Croatia! When I told my parents, my friends and my co-workers that I was going to Croatia, everyone was so surprised and then started worrying me saying "Is Croatia safe? It's former socialist/communist state, and there was a war fought in Croatia until recently, you have to be very careful otherwise you might have trouble.". I know it sounds ridiculous. Croatia becomes more and more popular since last year, thanks to media picking up Croatia, and I'm sure more and more Japanese understand Croatia. But back in 2010, we have so little information about Croatia and many people misunderstand Croatia. We are so allergic against socialism and communism without knowing why and without understanding what exactly they mean.

  To be honest, I had a bit of doubt before I visited Croatia. I thought Croatia must be still in a process of recovering from the war and could be a poor country. So, I was so surprised to see so many cars, even many Japanese cars, on the road. And also, I'm very surprised to see so many tourist coming from Germany, Poland, Italy, Czech and so on. So, "the secretly popular resort destination Croatia" in 2005 became "the most popular resort destination"! The "real" Croatia was very lively and vibrant, which I couldn't imagine at all while I was in Japan. Also, Croatia is considered as one of the safest countries in Europe.